22 Checks Before the First Snow, After Every Storm and at the Spring Thaw, With a To-Do List and a Printable Roof Report
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What should I check on my roof before winter?
Clean gutters and downspouts, replace missing or lifted shingles while it's still mild, check flashing and vent boots, trim overhanging branches, and in the attic seal air leaks, top up insulation and keep soffit vents clear. Test any heat cable and have a roof rake ready. After storms, check from the ground — never climb an icy roof.
Before winter, clean the gutters and downspouts, replace missing or lifted shingles while the weather is still mild enough for their sealant strips to bond, check the flashing and plumbing vent boots, trim branches over the roof, and in the attic seal air leaks, top up thin insulation and keep the soffit vents clear — warm air leaking into the attic is what melts roof snow and builds ice dams. Test any roof heat cable and have a roof rake ready. After each storm, check from the ground and from inside: ice ridges at the eaves, stains on ceilings, frost in the attic, drifts on lower roofs and the warning signs of too much snow load. In spring, look for damaged shingles, granules in the gutters and bent hangers. Tick the items as you go and the checklist builds your to-do list.
Before the first snow (fall)
September to November, on a dry day
Clean gutters and downspouts after the leaves drop — Clogged gutters hold meltwater at the eave, where it refreezes into an ice dam.
Replace missing, cracked or lifted shingles — Do it while daytime temperatures are still mild — shingle sealant strips need warmth to bond.
Check flashing at the chimney, walls, vents and skylights — Lifted metal or cracked sealant lets dam water and wind-driven snow in.
Look at plumbing vent boots for cracked rubber collars — A split boot is one of the most common winter leaks.
Trim branches over the roof — Snow and ice make limbs heavy enough to break and puncture the roof.
Check attic insulation depth and seal air leaks — Warm air leaking into the attic melts roof snow from below — the cause of most ice dams.
Make sure soffit vents aren't blocked by insulation — Intake air keeps the roof deck cold; rafter baffles hold insulation back from the vents.
Confirm bath and kitchen fans vent outside, not into the attic — Moist air in a cold attic turns to frost on the sheathing.
Test roof heat cable on its GFCI outlet — Find a dead cable now, not during the first storm.
Have a roof rake ready — Clearing the bottom 3–4 ft of snow from the ground is the safest way to stop a dam.
During winter (after each storm)
From the ground and from inside — never on an icy roof
Look for ice ridges and heavy icicles along the eaves — A ridge of ice at the edge means water is ponding behind it.
Check ceilings and the tops of outside walls for stains — Ice dam leaks show up indoors days after a thaw.
Look in the attic for frost, wet insulation or dripping nails — A sign of warm, moist air leaking up from the house.
Watch for snow load warning signs — Sagging ceilings, new cracks, creaking or doors that suddenly stick: get everyone out and call a professional.
Check for drifts on lower roofs, porches and against walls — Drifts and snow sliding off an upper roof can be far heavier than the snow elsewhere.
Keep downspout outlets and drains open — Meltwater that can't drain refreezes in the gutter and at the foundation.
Keep furnace, water heater and dryer vents clear of snow — Blocked exhaust vents can back up combustion gases.
After winter (spring thaw)
March to May
Scan each roof face for missing or damaged shingles — Ice dams and wind lift and crack shingles over winter.
Check gutters for heavy granule build-up — Lots of granules can mean the shingles are wearing out.
Check gutters for sagging or pulled-out hangers — Ice weight bends gutters and pulls fasteners.
Inspect the attic for stains, mold or soft decking — Winter moisture damage is easiest to see once it dries.
Photograph each roof face and any damage — Dated photos help an insurance claim if something fails later.
Frequently asked questions
When should I inspect my roof before winter?
In early to mid fall, once most leaves are down but while days are still mild. Shingle repairs bond best in warm weather, gutters can be cleaned after the leaves drop, and a roofer is easier to book before the first freeze.
Can I inspect my roof in winter?
Yes, but from the ground and the attic — not from the roof. Binoculars show missing shingles, ice ridges and sagging gutters; the attic shows frost, wet insulation and leaks. Never climb onto a snowy or icy roof; rake the bottom few feet of snow from the ground instead.
How do I know if there is too much snow on my roof?
Watch for sagging ceilings or roof lines, new cracks in drywall or plaster, creaking or popping sounds, and interior doors that suddenly stick. If you see them, leave the building and call a professional. The ground snow load calculator estimates what your roof is designed to carry.
What causes ice dams, and how do I prevent them?
Heat leaking from the house warms the upper roof, snow melts there and refreezes at the cold eave. The lasting fix is air sealing and insulation in the attic plus soffit-to-ridge ventilation to keep the deck cold; ice and water shield at the eaves stops dam water getting in; roof heat cable keeps a drainage path open on problem eaves.
Should I remove snow from my roof?
Only when it builds up heavily, when ice dams are forming, or when you see load warning signs. Use a roof rake from the ground and leave a couple of inches so the shingles aren't scraped. For a full roof or a steep, high one, hire a crew that is insured for roof snow removal.
Need the whole roof at once? The free roofing calculator works out roof area, squares, shingle bundles, underlayment, drip edge, ridge cap and installed cost from one set of measurements.