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R-49 is the common target for the roof or ceiling in cold and mixed climates. That is about 20 inches of blown fibreglass, 15 inches of blown cellulose, 16 inches of fibreglass batt or about 8 inches of closed-cell spray foam. Air seal the ceiling plane before adding any of it.
What an attic job costs depends less on the insulation than on everything around it: how much R-value your climate zone needs, what is already up there, whether the old material comes out, and whether the attic is air-sealed first. Enter your attic and this prices every part, as a contractor job or DIY.
With these inputs:
| Result | Value |
|---|---|
| Installed attic insulation cost | $2,114 – $3,632 |
| Cost per sq ft of attic | $2.11 – $3.63 |
| Target R-value | R-60 |
| Insulation to add | 20 in (R-50) |
| Bags | 29 bags |
| Insulation material | $1,044 – $1,392 |
| Installation labor | $600 – $1,100 |
| Air sealing | $350 – $900 |
| Rafter baffles (40) | $120 – $240 |
What drives the cost. The insulation itself is usually the smallest decision. A contractor blowing fiberglass or cellulose charges roughly the same per square foot for either, and both reach the same R-value at slightly different depths. What moves the total is how much you are adding (a bare attic in zone 6 needs R-60, about 24 inches of blown fiberglass at this site's conservative R-2.5 per inch), whether old insulation has to come out first, and whether the attic floor is air-sealed before anything is blown in. Air sealing is the step most often skipped and the one that matters most. Warm air leaking through top plates, wiring holes, plumbing stacks and the hatch carries heat past any depth of insulation. The US Department of Energy recommends sealing these leaks before adding insulation, and it is far cheaper to do while the attic floor is still visible. Top up or remove?. Dry, clean insulation can stay; new loose fill goes straight on top. Remove it if it is wet, moldy, contaminated by rodents, or if it is vermiculite (grey-brown, pebble-like), which can contain asbestos and should be tested and handled by a professional — never vacuumed out yourself. Removal roughly doubles a small job's cost, which is why the calculator keeps it as a separate line. Worked example: a 1,000 sq ft attic in zone 5. Say the attic has 4 inches of old fiberglass, about R-10. Zone 5's target is R-60, so you are adding R-50: 20 inches of blown fiberglass, or 29 bags with 10% for settling. With basic air sealing and baffles along the eaves, that is $2,111 – $3,626 with a contractor or $1,143 – $1,730 DIY. To see whether it pays back on your own heating bill, run the same attic through the energy savings calculator. Blown-in insulation for walls is priced differently. This calculator prices an open attic floor, where loose fill is blown to a depth. Closed walls are dense-packed through holes drilled in each stud bay, so the cost is set by the wall area and stud depth, plus drilling and patching, not by a target R-value. For walls, use the blown-in insulation cost calculator and pick closed walls, or the wall insulation calculator for open stud bays. Published 2026 figures. 2026 consumer cost guides put installed blown-in fiberglass at roughly $1.00–$1.80 per square foot and cellulose at $1.10–$1.80, with air sealing typically $300–$1,500 on top and $1,000–$2,000 more when old insulation has to be removed. Homewyse's September 2026 model for blown-in attic insulation (R-45 cellulose, with debris disposal and equipment included) runs higher at $3.90–$8.11 per square foot. This calculator builds the price from parts instead, so you can see which parts a quote includes. Sources consulted: Angi and HomeGuide blown-in insulation cost guides (2026 data); Homewyse, “Cost to Install Blown-In Attic Insulation” (September 2026); ENERGY STAR recommended home insulation R-values; Owens Corning AttiCat coverage chart.
R to add = zone target R − (existing inches × 2.5) · Bags = R to add × area ÷ bag rating (R·sq ft per bag) × 1.10 · Labor = area × $0.60–$1.10 (loose fill) or $0.70–$1.30 (batts) · Removal = area × $1.00–$2.25 (pro); air sealing $350–$2,000 (pro) · Total = material + labor + removal + air sealing + baffles
| Attic | Contractor | DIY |
|---|---|---|
| 600 sq ft | $1,412 – $2,556 | $702 – $1,136 |
| 800 sq ft | $1,763 – $3,094 | $923 – $1,434 |
| 1,000 sq ft | $2,111 – $3,626 | $1,143 – $1,730 |
| 1,200 sq ft | $2,423 – $4,110 | $1,327 – $1,978 |
| 1,500 sq ft | $2,942 – $4,902 | $1,656 – $2,420 |
| 2,000 sq ft | $3,767 – $6,166 | $2,167 – $3,106 |
Computed with this calculator. Removal of old insulation adds $1.00–$2.25 per sq ft with a contractor.
| Climate zone | Attic target | Blown fiberglass to add | Bags | Contractor | DIY |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Zone 1 | R-30 | 8 in (R-20) | 12 | $1,499 – $2,810 | $531 – $914 |
| Zones 2–3 | R-49 | 15.6 in (R-39) | 22 | $1,859 – $3,290 | $891 – $1,394 |
| Zones 4–8 | R-60 | 20 in (R-50) | 29 | $2,111 – $3,626 | $1,143 – $1,730 |
Computed with this calculator. Zones 4 to 8 share the R-60 attic target, so they price the same; zone 1 needs the least.
| Existing insulation | Add | Bags | Contractor | DIY |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| None (bare attic) | 24 in | 34 | $2,291 – $3,866 | $1,323 – $1,970 |
| 3 in (about R-8) | 21 in | 30 | $2,147 – $3,674 | $1,179 – $1,778 |
| 6 in (about R-15) | 18 in | 26 | $2,003 – $3,482 | $1,035 – $1,586 |
| 9 in (about R-23) | 15 in | 22 | $1,859 – $3,290 | $891 – $1,394 |
| 12 in (about R-30) | 12 in | 17 | $1,679 – $3,050 | $711 – $1,154 |
| 6 in, removed first | 24 in | 34 | $3,291 – $6,116 | $1,673 – $2,620 |
Old insulation is counted at R-2.5 per inch, as in the calculator. Every inch already up there is an inch you do not buy, unless it has to come out.
| Material | Depth to add | Bags | Material only | Contractor | DIY |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Blown-in fiberglass | 20 in | 29 | $1,044 – $1,392 | $2,111 – $3,626 | $1,143 – $1,730 |
| Blown-in cellulose | 13.9 in | 92 | $1,196 – $1,748 | $2,263 – $3,982 | $1,295 – $2,086 |
Cellulose reaches the same R-value in fewer inches but comes in smaller, heavier bags, so the bag count is higher.
| Zone | Where | Attic target | Blown fiberglass depth | Cellulose depth |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | S. Florida, Hawaii | R-30 | 12 in | 8.3 in |
| 2 | Gulf Coast, S. Texas | R-49 | 19.6 in | 13.6 in |
| 3 | Southeast, S. California | R-49 | 19.6 in | 13.6 in |
| 4 | Mid-Atlantic, Pacific NW | R-60 | 24 in | 16.7 in |
| 5 | Midwest, New England | R-60 | 24 in | 16.7 in |
| 6 | N. Midwest, N. New England | R-60 | 24 in | 16.7 in |
| 7 | N. Minnesota, Maine | R-60 | 24 in | 16.7 in |
| 8 | Alaska interior | R-60 | 24 in | 16.7 in |
Targets are for an uninsulated attic floor; ENERGY STAR gives R-30 to R-49 for zone 1 and R-49 to R-60 for zones 2–3. Depths are settled inches at this site's R-per-inch figures.
Topping up 4 inches of old insulation to R-60 with blown fiberglass, with basic air sealing and baffles, is roughly $2,100–$3,600 with a contractor in this calculator, or about $1,100–$1,700 DIY. Removing the old insulation first adds $1,000–$2,250.
For a 1,000 sq ft attic with 4 inches already down, blown fiberglass with basic air sealing runs about $1,499 – $2,810 with a contractor in zone 1 (R-30), $1,859 – $3,290 in zones 2 and 3 (R-49) and $2,111 – $3,626 in zones 4 to 8 (R-60).
No, it prices an open attic floor. Walls are dense-packed through holes drilled in each stud bay and priced by wall area, stud depth and patching. Use the blown-in insulation cost calculator with closed walls selected instead.
For an open attic floor, blown-in is usually cheaper and performs better because it fills around joists, wires and bracing without gaps. Batts make sense for small areas, knee walls and where you want to be able to lift them to reach wiring later.
Only if it is wet, moldy, contaminated by rodents or damaged. Dry, clean insulation still has R-value and can stay; new loose fill goes straight on top. Vermiculite should be tested for asbestos before anyone disturbs it.
Usually, in a poorly insulated attic. The energy savings calculator on this site works out the payback from your own bill; federal and utility incentives, where available, shorten it further.
Need the whole roof at once? The free roofing calculator works out roof area, squares, shingle bundles, underlayment, drip edge, ridge cap and installed cost from one set of measurements.